Additives for Very Old Engine?

[jtay2024]

Morning (or afternoon / evening)

We have a vehicle with a 1950s 2l petrol engine. It has a very basic single carb setup, with 0 after treatment on the exhaust, and very basic timing adjustment (turn the distributor forward or backward to advance / retard the timing).

I am wondering if there are any petrol fuel additives worth running in it to A) Keep the cylinders as clean as possible, and B) Help prevent pre-ignition (this second one isn't really a big deal as we can just use 99 octane fuel).

Thanks!

 

[CharBaby]

Not knowing what products you have in your area, I would suggest using a "fuel system cleaner" with Polyetheramine (PEA).
Search products in your area with PEA

 

[jtay2024]

Not knowing what products you have in your area, I would suggest using a "fuel system cleaner" with Polyetheramine (PEA).
Search products in your area with PEA

Yeah I was thinking Redline SI-1. Maybe two bottles one after the other.

I was just posting this to see if anyone suggested anything else but if it's PEA that's best I'll grab some SI-1.

Thanks!

 

[Lubener]

I would not add any additives to your fuel system, unless you are dealing with a specific problem.

 

[CharBaby]

Yeah I was thinking Redline SI-1. Maybe two bottles one after the other.

I was just posting this to see if anyone suggested anything else but if it's PEA that's best I'll grab some SI-1.

Thanks!

As you may or may not already know:
It is generally recommended to use a “fuel system cleaner”(FSC) once per oil change due to those chemicals polluting the oil (if I said that correctly). And since you’re asking, I believe that PEA is the best recommendation at this time and Redline SI-1 is a favorite here at BITOG.

Typically, you pour in the fuel system cleaner(as per the directions) on the last fill up the fuel just prior to your next oil/filter change interval(OCI). First pour in the FSC on a close to empty tank, then fill the tank with fuel so that they mix properly.

Longer periods of driving over time is better than using the tank of fuel too quickly, as the FSC needs time to do it’s job. And there are at least two schools, maybe three schools of thought on using fuel system cleaners. Some may use them as a preventive maintenance and others will only use them if they notice a problem. While others don’t use them at all. I believe in doing what makes you sleep at night.

Fuel system cleaners are better than just a carburetor or fuel injection cleaners, as the FSCs contribute to cleaning the Intake valves and combustion chamber as well. I’m sure that you are already aware of this and not to insult your intelligence. I’m just saying!

Best of luck to you,

 

[jtay2024]

As you may or may not already know:
It is generally recommended to use a “fuel system cleaner”(FSC) once per oil change due to those chemicals polluting the oil (if I said that correctly). And since you’re asking, I believe that PEA is the best recommendation at this time and Redline SI-1 is a favorite here at BITOG.

Typically, you pour in the fuel system cleaner(as per the directions) on the last fill up the fuel just prior to your next oil/filter change interval(OCI). First pour in the FSC on a close to empty tank, then fill the tank with fuel so that they mix properly.

Longer periods of driving over time is better than using the tank of fuel too quickly, as the FSC needs time to do it’s job. And there are at least two schools, maybe three schools of thought on using fuel system cleaners. Some may use them as a preventive maintenance and others will only use them if they notice a problem. While others don’t use them at all. I believe in doing what makes you sleep at night.

Fuel system cleaners are better than just a carburetor or fuel injection cleaners, as the FSCs contribute to cleaning the Intake valves and combustion chamber as well. I’m sure that you are already aware of this and not to insult your intelligence. I’m just saying!

Best of luck to you,

Thanks for the info. The idea of cleaning the pistons is what swayed me towards the Redline SI-1.

We've had to strip down and manually decoke before, and if Redline helps reduce the need for doing that then I'll be happy. I could do with getting a borescope and having a good look inside.

 

[addyguy]

You may need to use a lead replacement additive with something that old?
What type of vehicle is it, just curious?

 

[CharBaby]

^^^I forgot to ask, what type of older vehicle do you have? Maybe some pictures too!

 

[Revving2Redline]

I'm all for the Redline Si-1 as well as doing a carburetor cleaning w/ Lucas Spray. I'd will be less aggressive than some of the GDI formulas. If you thought you might need to clean it up a bit, @High Performance Lubricants has a Engine Cleaner 40 that would be okay. Need to stay with non ethanol fuel too.

Multi-Purpose Parts Cleaner & Degreaser – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive!

www.lucasoil.com

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Morning (or afternoon / evening)

We have a vehicle with a 1950s 2l petrol engine. It has a very basic single carb setup, with 0 after treatment on the exhaust, and very basic timing adjustment (turn the distributor forward or backward to advance / retard the timing).

I am wondering if there are any petrol fuel additives worth running in it to A) Keep the cylinders as clean as possible, and B) Help prevent pre-ignition (this second one isn't really a big deal as we can just use 99 octane fuel).

Thanks!

For anyone wondering about 99 Octane and why US only gets 91/93 Octane, here are a couple conversion charts. Octane is rated differently across the pond.

P.S. A trip down the memory lane. Before I learned octane ratings and reasons behind them - I was just a college kid who thought more octane is more power. Average price per gallon was $2.20, but I usually gave my car Premium at $2.80-$2.99/gallon. The difference between 87 and 93 was actually felt, car was missing power and MPG on 87, but gained it all back on 93. So one day I found 100 octane at the pump, at $6.99/gallon. Imagine my disappointment when 16.5 gallons later ($115+) my IS300 did not gain any more acceleration or efficiency... And that was with a $300-$350 weekly income from working part-time at AutoZone... For next couple weeks it was only eggs, ramen, and oatmeal, to somewhat financially recover from that expensive tank of gas.

 

[jtay2024]

^^^I forgot to ask, what type of older vehicle do you have? Maybe some pictures too!

Hi Charbaby,

It's a Series 1 Land Rover from 1953. My Dad has owned it for about 40 years now. Been used and abused for offroad competitions and was then rebuilt in around 2003.

Thanks all for the info in this thread as well!

 

[Malo83]

Berryman B12.

 

[Fish Fry]

Morning (or afternoon / evening)

We have a vehicle with a 1950s 2l petrol engine. It has a very basic single carb setup, with 0 after treatment on the exhaust, and very basic timing adjustment (turn the distributor forward or backward to advance / retard the timing).

I am wondering if there are any petrol fuel additives worth running in it to A) Keep the cylinders as clean as possible, and B) Help prevent pre-ignition (this second one isn't really a big deal as we can just use 99 octane fuel).

Thanks!

I'm religiously running Labracin in my 41 Chevy and in the 62 Opel of my girlfriend. Using it since years, and I'm very happy with it.

• It cleans the entire fuel system (tank, pipes, carburettors, valves, injectors, etc.)
• Water in the tank is “emulsified” i.e. bound in the smallest droplets and kept in solution – no rust formation
• No acetic acid can develop – no rust formation
• Lead substitute is integrated in the product – no extra additives necessary
• Slightly increased octane number (up to 2 points)
• High-performance lubricant is integrated in the product, all parts of the fuel system are reliably lubricated or prevented from drying out (both metal and plastic parts)
• Petrol remains stable for years
• Reliable starting even after long periods of inactivity for your classic car
• For all 2- or 4-stroke engines regardless of their year of manufacture (from 1900 to current)

I'm in Germany so it is easy to get over here, not sure if there is a seller in UK - you may want to check the website: https://www.labracin.com/en

Lovely ride by the way - I always wanted a Landrover.

best, Frank

 

[Bailes1992]

Hi Charbaby,

It's a Series 1 Land Rover from 1953. My Dad has owned it for about 40 years now. Been used and abused for offroad competitions and was then rebuilt in around 2003.

Thanks all for the info in this thread as well!

That's awesome! We have a '96 Defender. What oil you using in it?

My initial thoughts would be M1 5w50 FS.

 

[RaRa]

I will used gumout high mileage or gumout multi system tune up or redline s1.

 

[wings&wheels]

Nice! But I am biased

I have an SIII and only run Redline Lead Substitute and StaBil Marine for storage as it doesn't get used during the Winter. I would not use anything beyond that especially if you don't have any symptoms.

IIRC the UK has several lead substitutes that we don't get here. Your FBHVC ran a test on lead substitutes a while back and found that some were ineffective, can't find the link now but research it. If the 2003 rebuild included hardened valve seats, then no worries.

Old Series rock!

 

[jtay2024]

I'm religiously running Labracin in my 41 Chevy and in the 62 Opel of my girlfriend. Using it since years, and I'm very happy with it.



I'm in Germany so it is easy to get over here, not sure if there is a seller in UK - you may want to check the website: https://www.labracin.com/en

Lovely ride by the way - I always wanted a Landrover.

best, Frank

I've not heard of those before but I'll do some digging. I've seen a lot of people recommend Berryman B12 but I'm not sure we can get that here in the UK either which is a shame!

Thanks!