Second change on the wife’s Kona. Doing exactly factory recommended changes as long as it is under warranty. Factory filter. With her mostly working from home only gets out two to three times a week.
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Based on your UOA, you have a decent amount of fuel dilution there (judging by that low flash point). Did you start up the vehicle, move it, then turned it off, right before the oil change?Second change on the wife’s Kona. Doing exactly factory recommended changes as long as it is under warranty. Factory filter. With her mostly working from home only gets out two to three times a week.
Not a turbo, Smartstream 2.0. Don’t know why it’s listed that way.Based on my experience with Hyundai, going 7500 miles on a turbo engine would be a hard no. I realize its a new engine type, but I trust them as far as I can throw them until proven otherwise. My .02.
Look at the UOA, the engine has nearly no wear.Based on my experience with Hyundai, going 7500 miles on a turbo engine would be a hard no. I realize its a new engine type, but I trust them as far as I can throw them until proven otherwise. My .02.
A cheap UOA cannot be used to determine or infer engine wear. That's what expensive engine teardowns are for.Look at the UOA, the engine has nearly no wear.
Based on what?1200 ppm calcium is more of an old school formulation.
Did you read the post literally right before yours where he said it was listed as a turbo but is not? That was my concern. For a turbo, it would be a hard no. Even not, I wouldn't do it. Mine was great at 5K OCI until 100K. These engines are unproven, and Hyundai has a reputation. I also said MY .02. Which was based on experience.Look at the UOA, the engine has nearly no wear.
Keep doing what you're doing OP. Thats a great report.
Theta II got killed the fastest, because Hyundai took the Theta I and switched the port injectors to GDI injectors without changing anything else. They kept the 5W-20 oil specification. In short, soot and fuel dilution took these engines to an early grave. If you use an oil with a HTHS of 3.5 or higher, they will last for a very long time.These engines are unproven, and Hyundai has a reputation.
These have more anti-oxidants like alkaryl amine. That's the only difference between EP and non-EP oils. A better choice are Euro oils with more stringent approvals.oils with EP power
Tell that to the UOAs here that breakdown both Supertech and Supertech Advanced additive numbers in the same viscosity.These have more anti-oxidants like alkaryl amine. That's the only difference between EP and non-EP oils. A better choice are Euro oils with more stringent approvals.
I just checked the owners manual, only oil listed is 0W20 , SN Plus or SP. As long as it’s under warranty that’s all it’s going to get. Might tighten up the interval to 5k.Based on your UOA, you have a decent amount of fuel dilution there (judging by that low flash point). Did you start up the vehicle, move it, then turned it off, right before the oil change?
These engines tend to create a lot of soot. Not as bad as previous models, but they still do. We had to reflash our 2020 Smartstream 2.5L in the Sonata several times, as Hyundai was trying to get the eight injectors to work right, along with the air/fuel mixture ratio. My advice to you is to bump up the viscosity one grade to 5W-30 to give you a cushion.
So is it the oil or the engine? Asking because I run Kirkland 0W20 in my 2012 Fit (177k miles) around the same OCI as OP. I personally seem to think engine noise is louder but I am not the main driver so it is hard to say if it has always been this loud for being a 1.5 liter wrapped in a tin can and driving like a respectable 2.4 liter or that Kirkland (Warren) oil is no match for thr M1 0W20 I used for the first 10 years of the car.A cheap UOA cannot be used to determine or infer engine wear. That's what expensive engine teardowns are for.
The only thing you can use an UOA for is to determine the condition of the oil. And the condition of this oil is not good, as it sheared and is fuel diluted, meaning that it can no longer protect the engine to its full ability.
Check with the dealership to see if any letterhead or phone calls from Hyunkia Inc came after you took delivery - that say to change to 0w30 with all the TGDIs.I just checked the owners manual, only oil listed is 0W20 , SN Plus or SP. As long as it’s under warranty that’s all it’s going to get. Might tighten up the interval to 5k.
Great pointsTheta II got killed the fastest, because Hyundai took the Theta I and switched the port injectors to GDI injectors without changing anything else. They kept the 5W-20 oil specification. In short, soot and fuel dilution took these engines to an early grave. If you use an oil with a HTHS of 3.5 or higher, they will last for a very long time.
Same story with the Lamba II engine, it needs an oil with 3.5 HTHS. It fuel dilutes and generates soot. On a thin fuel economy oil, the soot buildup will shave the rod bearings until there's almost nothing left, and the most eager rod pops out.
The entire story about Hyundai not cleaning the crankshafts properly during manufacturing is made up. Imagine how much bigger the backlash would have been if they told the world the truth: that they specified low viscosity conventional oils (yes, they did) for the North American markets to meet EPA fuel economy claims and to cater to the cheapskate consumer who wouldn't spend any money on a motor oil that carried actual specifications anyway.
You only have to ask yourself this one question: why didn't the rest of the world have the same problems with these two engines? Although the Lamba II engine issues weren't nearly as publicized because Hyundai/KIA put them in fewer vehicles, and some of the issues were addressed by KIA by increasing the sump capacity by an extra quart and moving the oil filter next to the oil pan, and by specifying a 5W-30 oil without a API or HTHS restriction.