Originally Posted By: BigJakeChevy
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: BigJakeChevy
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
I had the same ticking issue. Changed oring at the oil pump pickup tube. Problem solved.
BJC, thank you for this recommendation. After I did some research on your response, a split o-ring is the problem.
I knew a lifter was ticking, but what I DIDN'T know is the oil pressure gauge was only reading about 5 psi. My friend never told me this, and I had never physically looked at the gauge. I talked to a Chevy tech. that I know in Tampa, FL. at FERMAN CHEVROLET, and he gave me some advice as how to fix it. He stated that upon initial engine assembly, the Chevy engine plant worker would accidentally nick the o-ring upon installing the pick up tube. As time goes by, the nick eventually splits the o-ring and causes lack of oil pressure.
Tools required;
Hemostats, thin wire 6" long, shop rag soaked with Vaseline, magnet, Dremel, and new 0-ring.
We will cut the notch holding the pick up tube retaining ring, spin it 180*, and use the bolt hole opposite of the factory bolt hole upon assembly. This technique will save us from dropping the pan and the WHOLE front axle!
Sounds easy enough, right? I will mostly be supervising. If I get caught doing ANY physical labor, my SSDI, Medicare, and other benefits CAN/WILL be stripped!
Personally i took my front diff out. It wasn’t that bad imo. I didn’t like the idea of cutting and grinding metal that with drop into the oil pan. Im glad i took my oil pan off as i was able to clean it. Glad you found your problem, nice to save an engine!
BJC, it's my best friends truck. He hasn't driven it since it started losing oil pressure. I was always wondering why he wasn't driving it.
Anyway, my Chevy tech. friend explained everything about the procedure in which to fix it, WITHOUT having to drop the pan and the front end. He even suggested I look around on YOU TUBE. There are procedures similar to the way he described the way he does it. That's where the Vaseline soaked rag comes into play. It will lay in the pan capturing any debris the DREMEL throws off. The wire and magnet are to attach and catch the bolt so it doesn't drop into the pan while removing it with the Hemostats. My friend and I watched a few of the videos last night and this AM, and have a plan. He wants to repair it next weekend.
Thanks for your initial reply. Had you not stated that I would probably have figured it out, but much later. Thank You!
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: BigJakeChevy
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
I had the same ticking issue. Changed oring at the oil pump pickup tube. Problem solved.
BJC, thank you for this recommendation. After I did some research on your response, a split o-ring is the problem.
I knew a lifter was ticking, but what I DIDN'T know is the oil pressure gauge was only reading about 5 psi. My friend never told me this, and I had never physically looked at the gauge. I talked to a Chevy tech. that I know in Tampa, FL. at FERMAN CHEVROLET, and he gave me some advice as how to fix it. He stated that upon initial engine assembly, the Chevy engine plant worker would accidentally nick the o-ring upon installing the pick up tube. As time goes by, the nick eventually splits the o-ring and causes lack of oil pressure.
Tools required;
Hemostats, thin wire 6" long, shop rag soaked with Vaseline, magnet, Dremel, and new 0-ring.
We will cut the notch holding the pick up tube retaining ring, spin it 180*, and use the bolt hole opposite of the factory bolt hole upon assembly. This technique will save us from dropping the pan and the WHOLE front axle!
Sounds easy enough, right? I will mostly be supervising. If I get caught doing ANY physical labor, my SSDI, Medicare, and other benefits CAN/WILL be stripped!
Personally i took my front diff out. It wasn’t that bad imo. I didn’t like the idea of cutting and grinding metal that with drop into the oil pan. Im glad i took my oil pan off as i was able to clean it. Glad you found your problem, nice to save an engine!
BJC, it's my best friends truck. He hasn't driven it since it started losing oil pressure. I was always wondering why he wasn't driving it.
Anyway, my Chevy tech. friend explained everything about the procedure in which to fix it, WITHOUT having to drop the pan and the front end. He even suggested I look around on YOU TUBE. There are procedures similar to the way he described the way he does it. That's where the Vaseline soaked rag comes into play. It will lay in the pan capturing any debris the DREMEL throws off. The wire and magnet are to attach and catch the bolt so it doesn't drop into the pan while removing it with the Hemostats. My friend and I watched a few of the videos last night and this AM, and have a plan. He wants to repair it next weekend.
Thanks for your initial reply. Had you not stated that I would probably have figured it out, but much later. Thank You!
