Originally Posted By: mechanicx
That might've been true about silicon drop out and short shelf life at one time, but I think most of the recent Green has a low silicate formula, maybe similar to G-05's. Green was never suggested to last more than 2-3 years and as long as you followed that recommendation it seemed to work well in most any car.
That may be true, but it is the OAT additives of G-05 that make the difference. The other problem is that the new green is hard to find. Zerex's new green lasts 5 yrs./100,000 miles. Just think, if the world had been patient, we would all still be using an improved green coolant.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Well Dexcol is not as bad as some make it out to be as long as you keep air out of the system. It might be more agressive with certain plastics and gaskets, but other than that it actually protects pretty well. I don't think Green will attack newer cooling systems anymore than say G-05 will. Green has been recommended and used in cooling systems for well over 20 years that were very similar to newer ones, aluminum, plastic radiator tanks etc. There might be a small issue of Green being more basic than idea for aluminum. I'm not sure what the pH of G-05 is, but again this hasn't been a big issue. Green has prtected aluminum fairly well for over 20 years.
An excellent point! However, it is the rest of green's ingredients that make up its IAT that can cause the damage. I think you may be forgetting that G-05 was designed from the get go to be a direct replacement to the original green coolant.
Another problem is GM. Their cooling system designs suck. They typically use an overflow tank set away from the radiator and connect that overflow tank to the radiator with a small diameter rubber hose usually about 18" or so in length. The overflow tank doesn't have a sensor in it to alert the owner of a low level and the radiator gets too low before the idiot light goes off.
Ford usually has a big overflow tank hooked to the radiator directly above it with a short length of rubber hose with a big diameter and they set the overflow above the radiator. The overflow also has a sensor in it. This is a much better design than GM. There is no actual radiator cap. It is a pressurized cap on the overflow. And the overflow is clear to visually inspect it without the cap's removal.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I think most Green is a low silicate formula. G-05 is primarily a H-OAT for the purpose of longer life. I don't think the issue revolves around silicates since if you change Green more regularly they don't seem to be a problem.
G-05 was designed to be the direct replacement of the old green stuff.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Yeah that's true I think. Asians don't like silicants because of concerns of water pump seal life, and Europeans don't like phospahtes because of hard water concerns. I don't think either is really a concern in reality, but phosphates might have less issues if the water isn't hard. Now, this instant protection thing I think is blown over-board, but I'll get back to that later. Usually this protective coating is put down before any real issue seems to develop and now you have full-time protection.
Instant protection is no overblown. G-05 using silicates and Asian coolant using phosphates provide this. Deathcool cannot as it doesn't contain either.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
This just hasn't been a problem with dexcool and probably other anti-freezes that lack fast acting inhibitors. Maybe it could be in an older engine switched from Green to Dexcool, but I doubt it.
You are wrong about all of that. Perhaps the water pump seals last longer using Deathcool than they did wit hteh old green syrup, but the impellers still suffer cavitation damage.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Yeah water alone lacks the low freeze point and inhibitors needed.
Which is why we need antifreeze/coolant. Not only for freezing protection but for boilover protection and cooling system protection.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe, but I don't know if it needs that long to act. Most people just circulate the radiator cleaner for a few minutes and it seems to work.
Some people are not following the directions then, lol. It does take this long especially when doing a conversion from Deathcool. The Prestone product I mentioned earlier has to be ran 4-6 hours (can be on and off driving) and may also require 2 or more bottles. I usually use 2 bottles anyway and repeat the process one more time after draining the cleaner out and flushing one more time with distilled water. I then pour two bottles in and top off with distilled water and drive around for another 4-6 hours.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I think if an anti-freeze like PGL lacks 2-EHA then it is not "deathcool" anymore than Green, Asian, or G-05 is. We don't know what the proprietary inhibitor is, but I think the formula is more similar to Asian formula, which is held in high esteem, without the phosphates. It claims greater compatibility with other coolants and a longer life. Either it's really good or hyped up, but I think it's much better than the other universal coolants/dexclones.
The first part of this is in correct. Other than no 2-EHA and a different color, Peak GL is chemically identical to Deathcool.
Deathcool is made of...
- Ethylene Glycol
- Diethlyene Glycol
- 2-EHA
- Potassium Hydroxide
G-05 is made of...
- Ethylene Glycol
- Diethlyene Glycol
- Silicates
- Sodium Tetraborate Pentahydrate (I have seen some use Sodium Benzoate)
All automotive coolants contain about 95% glycol. It is the 5% of additives that make it what it is. And as you can see, the additives that make G-05 are entirely different than Deathcool.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I agree with all that. I don't have the proof but my thinking is G-05 is probably less compatible with mixing in other coolants than the others.
It is best to never mix coolants. If you don't have the right coolant then go get the right coolant. If you are in an emergency and need to top off then use distilled water. If no distilled water then you are SOOL unless you really want to contaminate your cooling system with municipal drinking water or worse yet well water. It is always smart to have a 50/50 mix of the coolant you need and distilled water especially on long road trips.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I don't see anything wrong with how you are going about it here. Ford and Chrysler recommend G-05, so best to stick with it. I can't blame someone for switching out the Dexcool in a GM to some other longlife anti-freeze. And it makes sense for you to use one coolant across the board. I'm not sure if the chemical flush takes off the protective layer of the former ant-freeze or not, but if you are switching Dexcool to G-05, a full flush with chemical cleaner is probably a smart move. I tend to think with G-05 this step is more necessary for switching and with Peak GL less necessary. I'm of the opinion PGL is a better option for GM and Asian when switching away from OEM coolant.
The longer chemical flush is designed to remove those protective layers along with other formations and sediment in a cooling system.
Europe has a lot of mineral-rich, hard water whereas North America, South America, Australia, Asia, and maybe Africa are soft to medium water. If I owned an Asian vehicle, I would more than likely use Asian coolant. It is a fine formulation such as G-05 is. In a nutshell, they are almost chemically identical with the exception of Asian using phosphates instead of the silicates G-05 uses.