2,500 miles on Red Line 5W-20 in Maybach 57

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quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:
PS Nobody has commented on the particle counts. I find these most interesting. This should be a main discussion area.

I mentioned it in my post above, as I don't understand why they are rising instead of falling.
 
I would gather that the main reason for the rise in particles is the longer miles on the sample. The first being only 400 whilst the second 2,500. Interesting is the lower than virgin count in the 10-20 micron range.
 
I need to put in a clarification. The OEM oil was removed at 1,700 (total car) miles. A new fleece filter and Red Line 5W-20 was then added. I drove 2,500 miles and took a sample. I did not change the oil or filter at this sample. I will probably go another 2,000 miles on this original Red Line change and this filter. The total car miles were 4,200 at the current sampling of the Red Line oil.

aehaas
 
originally posted by sprintman
quote:

If Fuchs Titan GT 1 0W20 is available there have you considered it? Very *** reputation here and mandatory oil for the Porsche Cup racecars



I tried in vain to get some Fuchs Titan GT1 0w-20 in the US. I even contacted the factory and was told it's unavailable. Sigh.
 
Good Doctor,

I've enjoyed your writings on lighter weight oils, and reading some of your UOA's on your very interesting fleet of cars.

I was wondering if you have, or have any intention of running the recommended viscosity in each of your vehicles (that recommend based on viscosity and not based on oil pressure/rpm). Forgive me if you've done so and I just haven't seen the threads...however, I think it would make for an interesting comparison to see side by side UOA's.

On the other hand, what I am suggesting would be like asking a die hard 5w-40 user to run a 0w-20 in his vehicle. Accordingly, I don't blame you if you can't bring yourself to do this given your conclusions concerning appropriate viscosities.

In any case, please keep the interesting contributions coming!
 
Is it just me or does the particle count seem less-than-stellar at larger sizes? Maybe I'm remembering something wrong... it just seems like filtration should be better.
 
My engines do not get hot and so I use thinner oils, I am not against thicker oils. Just an hour ago I put 0W-30 Mobil 1 in the expedition instead of the planned use of Motorcraft 5W-20. I have a supply that I want to use up so in it went.

So there you go. It calls for a 20 wt. oil and Ali used a 30 wt. oil Can you believe that one! I also changed the coolant (G-5) and was going to change the brake fluid but I do not have any DOT 3 in my stash. I'll get some and change it tomorrow.

aehaas
 
Oh mein doktor...please do not to put the M1
0W-30 in the 'spedition...it deserves the oil of the Elves...Ja ist das richtig!
 
Baby steps pscholte, baby steps. The good doctor is starting out with a "thin" 30-weight. Perhaps he'll then step up to GC in the future.
biggthumbcoffe.gif
 
Very interesting. What oil temps do you see in this car?

Very interesting to see that most particles in the oil are between 5 and 10 microns..well below what oil filters are capable of filtrating...

I have chipped Audi S4(twin turbo as well) and I am thinking to run redline 5W-20 over the winter months but I was a bit hesitant to do it. I am wondering if I will have good protection once those turbos get real hot. It is my daily driver and it takes me 25-30 min to get to work. I am running Castrol 5W-40 now and it takes about 10 min to get oil temp up to 212F with normal highway driving...However temps get up to 250F if I start having fun with the car. And that is the 250 in the oil pan, I am sure oil temp in turbos is at least 2X that..
 
Unfortunately I have no way to monitor the temperature easily. It is an uncomfortable position. The good news is that the Noack is 8 and the Flash Point is 251 C so who cares (for the Red Line 5W-20 motor oil).

I have not yet figured out a way to get a magnet into this filter but as soon as I do I will put one in there.

aehaas
 
The filter is only an element. It fits inside a plastic outer cylinder. I suppose that if there was a way to strap a magnet against the outside maybe it would do something.

aehaas
 
You may want to try a Drain plug Magnet. I use one in my Toyota and found a little metal attached after the first time I used it.
 
Guys,

My opinion: if you have a pretty much standard engine operated under typical street conditions you can more likely get by with departures from what the manufacturer recommends. The more exotic that piece of engineering under your hood, the more careful you have to be with "experimentation." Turbos certainly fit the latter category. I agree with twillet. DO NOT put anything in that chipped turbo engine but a syn meeting or exceeding Audi's specs. I don't doubt that I might get some responses from members who say, We'll I've been running xxxx in my engine without issue. Fine, maybe you have been fortunate. But let's also hear from all those folks out there that have ignored manufacturer's instructions on exotic machinery (I don't have to change my timing belt at the five year point in my Lamborghini Jalpa...I don't care what Lamborghini says!) I'm telling you that if you have a high end automotive product you depart from specs at your peril.
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Hey zoomzoom...I wouldn't use 5W-20 in your S4. I also have a B5 S4, and wouldn't use anything less than M1 0W-40, or GC 0W-30. I also tried the BC 5W-40 and was not really impressed. Mine seemed to run hotter also. If you want to run a 5W-40, try M1 T&SUV. The motor seem to like it. Remember, out little turbos (either K03's or K04's) use the oil itself as the bearing, so too thin is BAD. Stick with an A3 rated oil with an HTHS of 3.5 or above.
 
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