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Wash it with water and dish detergent and let it dry before installing. This ensures there is no residual "mold release compound" from when it was manufactured. I used to work as a rubber molder and we'd use two different kinds of mold release to help prevent small pieces of the part tearing off...

Just make sure your power steering fluid is topped off and then check it every few days and see if it is losing any. If it's not losing any, don't worry about it. If you want to visually check for a leak, here's how. Google-search and find an image of a rack and pinion. Look at the ends. See...

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 senquack - Now that you have eliminated the anti wear and extreme pressure additives by using ATF, is it worth it? Totally! Today I was shifting *smoother* than the redline enabled. Just buttery. I actually transplanted this tranny from the u-pull-it for $150...

Always go with the higher grade part if it has the ball joint integrated into it. The cheaper part will use a less-resilient rubber boot and it will crack prematurely. It is in a place where it will be flexed constantly and likely will not last anywhere near as long as an OEM part if it is a...

I drive a 94 Mazda MX6 5spd. I am not sure how similar my transaxle is to yours but it shares a lot of history with other cars around then and also spec'd Dex-II/III ATF fluid and only holds a 2.7 for a refill (I imagine a new fill is more in your range). First gear can be notchy shifting into...

Well if they did indeed spec GL-5 that is fine and if you did try other fluids like Redline than sure it is a bearing. But gear oil is pretty heavy stuff and if someone had put that into many transaxles a noise at idle is exactly what happens.

You've put the wrong fluid into your transaxle - That 75w90 fluid is probably GL5 or at best, GL4 and that is the incorrect fluid for a transaxle. It is meant for RWD transmissions or differentials. Find out on a honda forum what everyone else is using. It probably will run smooth and quiet on...

If you want a good American-made work boot, I like Justin work boots. Any leather boot made in a first-world country that is worth a darn is going to be $150+ and these are no exception. I specifically wear this one and the soles seem to show no significant wear after a year and a half of work...

Very interesting to hear this from a tech. I always thought the filter was awfully huge for the small amount of debris it would be seeing.

I have had them on my car for maybe 3 years now and they're nice. No leaks. Very little mess compared to the other one-man alternative, the vacuum pump reservoir. For clarification, you actually loosen the speed bleeder a quarter turn or so (the directions will say how much) and then it is...

Don't forget the racing decals!

I recommend the Hakko line. I own this one, The Hakko 936 with a 907 iron: http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2871 (amazon link) http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-St...8264&sr=8-2 It is very high-quality, and heats up in literally a few seconds. You can order a multitude of different...

My '94 Mazda MX-6 V6's engine looks a lot cleaner than that under the valve covers. I bought it used at 85,000 miles and only used dino oil at a 5,000 OCI. At 120,000 miles I had the covers off and it looked nice and clean, nothing like this(slight sticky varnish on cover's surfaces that is...

Don't run scandisk on it as some might suggest.. First, try running PhotoRec on it. It does not write to the card just reads it at a low level. There are other data recovery utilities, mostly non-free. Only use scandisk as a last resort once you've given up. It writes and potentially can...