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It’s funny you should mention that ‘cause I was planning to do that too – along with a cooler. I haven’t taken any measurements but I’m hoping that I can squeeze both filters into that spot. I already have all the hard parts from my last car but may need some more hose. The valve body was...

I just inspected the oil cap more closely and I think I may be able to go through that after all. Rather than screw on, it uses metal tabs that grasp the underside of a lip on the valve cover. I still may be able to put a hole right through the center of it. Unless somebody has a better plan...

I already have the set up from my last car sitting on the floor of the garage and it's screaming to be put on. Also, I was continually very impressed how clean the oil looked with the bypass on my last car. It was always clear - never cloudy - even with extended drains. The bypass was obviously...

Has anybody put an Amsoil bypass setup on a volvo 2.3 turbo before? If so, how did you route the lines? The oil filter cap design on these cars prevents the return there and I really really don't want to pull the valve cover and drill a hole through it. Apparently, volvo uses some funky...

I just want to comment here for what it’s worth. Disclaimer: I have used Amsoil ATF happily in both Dex II (yes “II”) and T-IV applications and I am going to try some Wolfs Head ATF soon for a T-IV application. Anyway... 1) Without knowing the chemistries of the fluids, I don’t think it’s...

This is for the 1MZ-FE V6 I'm assuming. I've heard that the problem is due to a design that increased the head temp to help emissions without fast enough oil flow. As the story goes, the oil moves slowly and gets super heated. This makes it more sludge prone. So that's kind of what this guy is...

I don't know about the 4 cylinder trans but the 6 cylinder trans in the late 90's required separate draining and filling of the differential. It takes about a quart. Check to be sure you're not missing that if required. Is there a reason you're not doing a cooler-line flush? Less waste of...

Mobil recently changed their recommendations for M1 ATF. Why, is known only to Mobil. I don't know if there's been a formula change or not. Basically, it used to be a universal ATF. Now, it's a Dex/Merc. see this thread...

could be many things but I'd check the sway bar links first.

how do they maintain a consistent product then? or should I be asking: How important is supplier in maintaining a consistent product?

If he goes with Synpower + rebate it'll cost as much at most, more likely even less than dino.

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT If forced with the choice I would say Platinum, it meets HTO-06, is a proven performer, and seems to have superior TBN retention. agreed, if price was exactly the same.

6 hours?!?

flip a coin I'd go with Synpower from O'Reilly's because of rebate

Pablo has stated in the past that they have a variety of sources. XOM was/is probably a large supplier of PAO (at least pre-Katrina) but that doesn't necessarily hold for group III.

Is it brown as if burnt or just darker as if it's got some break-in clutch material in it? Either way, changing it would be good.

cost

I wonder if that's good or bad. I guess it either means that they really cheapened the add pack compared to XL and/or that XL uses a really expensive add pack and OE's is just average. While I have no idea what they're using or what their margins are, I would have rathered they take a more...

So then the cost difference is all add pack?

Originally Posted By: Capa Amsoil is not cost effective for the majority of people I have to disagree with this. While Amsoil is probably not cost effective for us DIY types on BITOG, Amsoil can be very cost effective for everybody else. We're in the minority. The majority of people get their...