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So I asked the engine builder some more. They said I need to use 10w40 conventional to maintain proper oil pressure for the variable cam timing to work. They said synthetic could make the VCT not work correctly. I have no idea how true this is, what do you guys think? On top of this....I have...

Thanks for the responses everyone!

Thanks for the advice mechtech. I will try 3000miles and see what happens.

Originally Posted By: Jim Allen Yes, go with what the builder says to keep whatever warranty you have intact... but it's a waste of oil and filters IMO. If the builder uses a modicum of sanitary engine building practice and good machining, there should be no need for that many oil/filter...

I realize I'm late to the party...did not expect my thread to cause this much discussion. The motor is about to be put together this weekend and I will break in it as per manufacturer specs. The manufacturer specifically recommends 10w40 and says that it is because of the tolerances that the...

I'm not 100% sure but they should be, they are made by CP. The builders specifically use and recommend Valvoline 10w40 conventional. They say it's what they use in their cars with the same motor.

Thing is the motor has a one-year warranty, so I'd run the oil for at least a year before anything. I'm just wondering why they would recommend conventional for the life of the engine though--not just the break in.

Hi everyone, I am rebuilding my motor, it's a stroker engine, V8, 5.3L and will be supercharged. The engine builders recommend 10w40 for the break in, non-synthetic. They recommend I run 10w40 non-synthetic on regular use as well. Is there any reason why conventional is better than synthetic...

Originally Posted By: Errtt I need a skunk or sewer smell Fragrance for the tailgaters. Now to dump a heavy dose into the intake as they approach my back bumper. And a hand full of those smoke balls dropped into the exhaust as they approach They make one that smells like marijuana...

Never tried it on a vehicle with cats, I just use them on my offroad stuff (quads / buggy). You guys think a UOA would be worth anything or there really shouldn't be any deposits at all?

Hi all, I came across these Fuel Fragrances (http://www.manhattanoil.com/fuel-fragrances.php), they are basically just small bottles of some fluid that you pour into your gas tank and it makes your exhaust smell like strawberries, or blueberries, or whatever. Anyway, I used two bottles last...

Originally Posted By: JOD Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere Hmm okay. I'm reading that the recommended Ford Motorcraft 5W20 has an HTHS of 2.78 (it is a group III synth blend). Should I still do the 0w20? Yeah, I would. The Motorcraft 5W20 blend has ranged from 2.65 to 2.78 depending on...

Originally Posted By: JOD Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere Gotcha. Thanks for the info. I'm guessing I want a lower cSt number? I really don't understand the tech behind the oil. I'm just going to go with redline or amsoil at this point. Probably redline. Then I'll do a UOA and if it...

Originally Posted By: JOD Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere Is there a reason I should go for 0W30 over 5W30? Sure. Until the oil is at full operating temperature, it's thicker than ideal. Viscosity is directly related to temperature. The 0W oils within the same category are generally...

Originally Posted By: gpshumway As others have stated before the 20wt vs 30wt in a mod motor debate has been done to death in the Ford community. Search the relevant forums for more info (and argument) than you can possibly stand. I'm on the side that says a mod motor which is run hard should...

Originally Posted By: gpshumway ^^ Exactly. The primary purpose of a UOA is to determine if the oil is fit for further use. You can't really draw any conclusions about engine wear or condition unless something is really going wrong. That said, your copper numbers were quite high and a...

Originally Posted By: Travis99LS1 Does the vehicles have after market springs to go along with the cams? An increase in spring pressure can certainly cause more wear..do you allow the oil to reach operating temp before beating the [censored] out of it? (not coolant,coolant will reach operating...

Thanks gpshumway! I'll check those out. I don't drive the engine too hard when it's cold but my rule of thumb is as soon as the coolant gauge shows that its warmed up to its operating temp, i go for it. Will the 30 weight oils do okay in winter?

How does redline typically compare to amsoil?

Does anyone know where I can find a list of Group III, IV, and V oils?