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I've just heard G12 contains a true OAT (Organic Acid Technology) inhibitor package, where Dex-Cool uses OAT combined with some sort of conventional inhibitors. I know BASF makes what VW calls G11 (actually BASF G48) so I wonder if that's who makes what VW calls G12?

Different seal material and/or seals that have already absorbed one type of fluid and would start leaking when exposed to another. This is one place I don't take any chances, I use exactly what the manufacturer says.

I've cranked right down on it on both my F-150 and Neon. Never had a problem with the reservoir. You just have to make sure it's centered... Of course I have the euro adapter for my VW's... Only one I haven't figured out how to use it on is my wife's MG Midget. The cap is about 3" across on that...

And you've probably got that yellow stuff that's supposed to be the cat's meow, right? If standard green and G-48 can both protect and keep a system like new for over 130k miles each (changed periodically) then the yellow stuff should be able to do it for at least a few months! Is it possible...

At least in my experience, they only get nasty when the coolant's not changed periodically (obviously discounting any water wetting additive use, I've never used any of them). We have had both '97 VW Jetta and a '97 Dodge Neon and I have changed the coolant every 2 years. Both cars are now 7...

You're right. Sorry.

FWIW the VW VR6 has one tensioner driven by oil with no spring. But it has a check valve to prevent oil from draining to prevent it from retracting. They're nice, you bleed them out and make sure they're full of oil, then just loop your chain around, screw it in and start it up. The chain is...

I don't know how relevant this is, but I have a similar situation and some empirical information. The VW VR6 uses a plastic surface spring loaded tensioner and guide rail for a bottom single row timing chain. There is also a large plastic oil pressure driven surface tensioner and guide rail for...

Absolutely true, the ABS only needs to be cycled really if it's gotten air in it. The clutch is so easy, just another bleeder to crack.

I swear by the smell, especially when it gets hot, that PB Blaster has a little oil of wintergreen in it. I've never found anything better than hitting a part with the torch quick and get it hot (but not glowing or anything). Then I carefully spray PB Blaster on a little at a time until the...

You want GL-4 because GL-5 has more EP additives that supposedly harm the yellow metal (syncros, etc). You don't need more than GL-4 in a FWD transaxle, no scuffing like in a RWD diffy. MT-1 is supposed to be a GL-5 that's safe for GL-4, at least that's what I understand?

One more vote for the Motive pressure bleeder, basically it's just a garden sprayer setup. Fast and easy. The recycling center for our county takes brake fluid, and I know they incinerate it. The guy told me because he said they had to store it until summer when they're burning things. Why they...

I believe Ate Super Blue is DOT 4 compliant glycol based fluid. Otherwise a whole bunch of people have contaminated their glycol systems with silicone based fluid and I would think we'd have heard of a lot of failures. I've never heard that it's not street legal? It may have to be changed more...

Purchased a VW with factory fill G-11 (G-48) in early 1997 and have changed the coolant every two years. 7 years and over 125k miles later, the inside of the cooling system looks like new. If this is factory fill, just keep it changed. Who knows about changing to it, I know it doesn't mix well...

That looks like a VW/Audi manual. Obviously the point to all of this is that the fluid should be changed every two years whether the manufacturer cares to tell you or not. Even if the corrosion from absorbed water were not the issue, the air/water causing problems with pedal feel would be...

My '85 VW uses standard DOT3, and my '97 VW uses DOT4. Same stuff you can go to Napa and buy, and same as I put in our Dodge, Ford and MG. And it does improve pedal feel, believe it or not. I would never have believed it if I hadn't felt it the first time. I don't know how, because the water is...

I've always replaced brake fluid at a maximum of 3 years and have never had a single problem with calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders or lines. This includes a 19 year old VW with over 150k miles and a 13 year old Ford pickup with over 200k miles. My feeling, anyway, is that the water...