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209K on a 95 F150 4x4 5.0L here. The only things that have been touched on the engine is the thermostat and the TPS. It's been wheeled, abused, and used as a DD, but it's still going strong. The only oil it uses between changes is what it leaks onto the ground (oil pan gasket is failing). -Rod

I've used those in the past when I was stuck with just a car as my only means of transportation. They do the job. As previously mentioned, don't plan on going over 30 mph with them. -Rod

Originally Posted By: JHZR2 "Dry" or not, there is not a sufficient pressure-backed film present to allow for true hydrodynamic lubrication. Exactly. On a run of the mill street car, this may not be that big of a deal, though I always fill the filter during an oil change on any vehicle. When...

To the OP: I have a relatively similar engine setup as you. After the advice I received in this thread , I switched from straight M1 5W30 Truck & SUV over to a 50/50 mix of M1 5W30 Truck & SUV and M1 5W40 TDT (almost 4 qts of each). That raised my hot idle oil pressure from 15 psi to 20-22 psi...

Originally Posted By: Nick R First thing that worried me was the color of the oil. never seen anything like it, it was almost auburn, reddish. The oil plug had a very worrying amount of ferrous material for only 1,000 miles... Sounds more like you pulled the transmission drain plug rather...

The only way to know for certain is to get under the car and look for grease zerks on things like tie rod ends, ball joints, u-joints, swaybar endlinks, etc. If you find grease zerks, you'll need to grease them periodically. -Rod

The oil filter isn't hard to get to from the top, but it tends to spill oil on the front axle when you remove it if you're not careful. -Rod

RockAuto is a good one for stock-type replacement parts. Jegs/Summitt are both good places for aftermarket parts. I usually use Crutchfield to research/pick out audio components, then google those part numbers to find a better price elsewhere. -Rod

Just about any driveshaft shop will balance your stock driveshaft for under $100. If the driveshaft is bent, they'll have no trouble making a new one for you. -Rod

Sounds like you have an unbalanced wheel/tire, bent wheel, or a tire with a broken belt. I assume that the tires aren't showing any signs of abnormal treadwear yet, right? -Rod

Originally Posted By: lanteau Who swapped a 4.6L into a SC? Seems so silly. I did. -Rod

Originally Posted By: mortician I have a 1994 ford thunderbird sc with a 4.6L it will do 110 with no problem, now to the problem does anyone know how much oil a 4.6l holds? I am no mechanic but it has to hold at least 5-6 quarts right? Unless you've done an engine swap, you either have a 94 SC...

Failed engine and transmission mounts can also cause vibrations, however they will not cause a "swaying" feeling while driving. -Rod

You can just replace the one with play, but check the other one regularly. If one is worn out, it's fair to assume that the other isn't far behind. -Rod

Were the rear wheel bearings even checked? Raise the rear of the vehicle, place your hands 180 degrees apart on the tire, and try to wiggle the tire. Try this both horizontally and vertically. If you notice any play, the bearing on that side is suspect. Check both sides. -Rod

Are you allowing the fuel pump to build pressure before you start cranking (turning the key to "ON" for a second or two before turning it to "START")? How long has it been since the spark plugs were replaced? I agree that the alternator is not the problem here, and that it could possibly be the...

Well if that's the case, then I definitely agree with Ray. It sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing. -Rod

Check your U-joints and engine and transmission mounts. -Rod

I'd do the Jmod and change the fluid over to Mercon V as soon as you can. A trans cooler would certainly be a good idea as well.

Always. The race car also gets its engine primed with pressurized oil before startup. -Rod