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Yeah it's off a 5.7 alright. Filter did great.

Looks new. Wouldn't be afraid to push it to 200hrs over several years.

Guys...I don't think i wanna go to mars anymore :(

Looks good. Some would see the waviness as concerning but that's normal.

Lol who cares, were energy dependent under this administrations energy directive. Anyways I just woke up from a coma, is it still 2019? What did I miss?

They've always had filtering screens. And no one ever changes them unless they damaged them while cleaning them out. But they never need cleaning if you regularly change your oil. It's not a maintenance item.

Yeah a lot don't take a hint when liters and non $ is used so I didn't recommend M1 FS 0w-40. Had you used dollars and quarts i too would've suggested that though. But yes M1 0w-40 is suitable for the 4.2 v8. I don't think it's available in most of Europe so buy within your local market to avoid...

Xclean+ is well regarded and if they're all equally priced or so I'd use that. But any of them will make that engine last long enough to where wear wouldn't be the killer. It would be some odd failure which no oil would've prevented so you can't fault yourself.

As ripcord said it can get messy to get into diff swaps and it's a good idea to invest in tires at least for the rear. Maybe throw some gravel down and compact it in afterwards by driving over it at idle multiple times like i did at my small farm. It's held up well over the years.

Turbos exasperate the condition and like others said it's when the engine is lugged more as more lugging means more load and more load means the fuel is dialed up.

It frankly doesn't matter, It's just a hydraulic pump and hydraulic lines. I've used everything in mine and it's still the factory one after 18 years. plain hydraulic fluid, universal psf, and any kind of auto trans fluid. Never had an issue and the sound and feel didn't change either. Still quiet.

Same. It's more efficient but not more reliable. But i wouldn't mind hydraulic power steering, I prefer the softer feel of it. And it's yet to fail me after 334k since new.

Yeah cause they know what's good.

That is laughable.

The delco pf filters are sucky to me because they're overpriced for what they are, The supertech MP filters are cheaper and better but so are the, stp, and wix ones. I have the fram tough guards installed right now. Great filtration to 20um at 99%.

If it's just for 6-8k a year then use a single grade. I'd use any 0/5w-40 euro or diesel year round.

Euro 40's have similar add packs. They aren't phosphorous constrained and euro oils are sometimes dual rated for diesel and gas engines without using c(x)/s(x) identifiers. But having that rating in the list. But for a gas engine a euro oil is plenty good.

M1 0/5w-40 euro is good but you can use any other brands 40 grade euro oil or any 15w-40 in the warmer part as i do. And i try to snag some cheap euro rated oil for the other half of the year. Quaker state euro 5w-40 is what i have shelved right now. Have run it before with the same great...

Damage no, But in the long term theses engines live longer and healthier with a 40 grade. I have a combined 564k on two of these engines since new. Never had any metal inside replaced. They run like new to this day. And i extend intervals to 10k. Use 40 grade euro and diesel oil.

They're brainwashed. Ignore them. You yourself can clearly see that's the case. Zero issues with a 40 but problems with a 30. So why even bother listening to those fools.