Recent content by pev223

It would be difficult to prove engines damage due to using a lighter weight oil. As far as switching wrong oil in motors during oil changes, I believe you will find the tendency is to put 5w-30 in cars that call for 20wt, not the other way around. I own 2 auto repair shops and know for a fact...

That is a completely useless test! Timken machines are one armed bandits, this is the machine where head & shoulders shampoo outperformed every motor oil on the market! I don't suggets we run shampoo in our engines. Don't waste your time.

I tend to agree that lower noack will probably slow down the rate of build up, I just don't believe it will prevent it. The carbon buildup seems to be caused by poorly designed egr systems. Ford and Gm cars rarely seem to have issues because we have been dealing with emission controls since the...

Customer service will always tow the the line, it's call cover your a-- lol. You are correct about the 20w oil being more of a cafe consideration. Just look at the new cafe regulations going into effect, then look at how many new cars are now being spec'd for 20w oils that were not just a short...

This car was not spec'd for a 20 wt oil, and I certainly would not reccomend going thinner especially with that kind of mileage. I believ you would be equally happy with the redline 5w-30. I have used it for several years and love it!

A friend of mine owns a 2006 Lincoln Town car with the 4.6 liter engine. He was a limo driver up until last year. He used 10w-30 and 10w-40 weight oils exclusively and changed the oil and filter every 4,000 miles. Engine is all original and does not burn oil. It has over 350,000 miles on it. He...

A friend of mine has a 2006 Lincoln town car with the 4.6 liter engine. It does not have vct but it is spec'd for 5w-20. He has run nothing but 10w-30 or 10w-40 since it was new with absolutely no problems. The motor is all original , but this is the kicker, it has over 350,000 miles on it! He...

Just a quick read regarding lightweight oils in racing today. If 5w-20 can survive endurance racing going out for groceries should be a breeze. http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2313.shtml

Just my 2 cents based on my personal observations. I have seen many engines over the years with varying degrees of sludge problems,all of them were using dino oils. If we take mechanical problems out of the equation, out of tune engines, or even poorly engineered designs, I have found one common...

If I read your post correctly, you seem to imply that cars will last longer with dino oil than with synthetic oil. I have a hard time believing that is true. First of all, the example you used, poster Artemedes, compared 5w-20 synthetic to 5w-30 Dino oil. Second, the car only had 15,000 miles...

I too believe synthetic oil has advantages, but I believe it is more than just limited to extended drains and extreme conditions. We can mention sludge formation and cleanliness also important for long life. We can also debate how it can reduce wear by virtue of its better lubricity. But this is...

They give all their other oils, including non api rated oils, sm ratings. Take a look at SSO, ASL, ASM, etc.

I personally feel the test was poorly done and not up to consumer reports usual standards. For example, they told you what the average wear was but not which one was the lowest or which one was the highest. The truth is a .001 difference in bearing clearance over a mere 60,000 miles is huge. But...

There is one thing that concerns me about the Dominator oil. There is no mention of any kind of rating for this oil. No SM, GF-4, acea, etc. Maybe this oil is strictly for racing use?

You are correct in your definition of paraffins. However, the real point I was trying to make is that the paraffins in mineral oil vs Pao have nothing in common. One is desirable one is not. Sort of like tomatoes and pineapples. They are both fruit but no one will ever confuse the two. Anyway...