Recent content by Mitsu_Joe

With the Galant: Longest fast trip has been Hamburg - Berlin - Salzburg at night (~600 miles). Whenever possible, pedal to the metal… However, due to the relatively tall gearing its only turning at around ~4500rpm at top speed. I’ve also raced the engine on some mountain passes staying between...

I'd stick with selecting the highest gear possible and the lowest gear necessary. Meaning the highest gear in which the engine manages to supply the necessary torque to the wheels without lugging it. I want to keep fuel consumption, noise and vibration as low as possible. From a...

Thank you for sharing that story! They are definetely great engines and I really like the concept behind it. From my impression they are not really about peak power at high rpm. They feature a nice powerband with a decent amount of low-end torque due to the 8v-design and the long piston stroke...

Viscosity grade =\= quality of a particular oil

Since about 2,5 years, I daily drive a 1988 Mitsubishi Galant. The car itself is quite outdated, powered by a 1.8L l4 carbureted engine, manual windows, MT, no antilock brakes, a/c or airbags. Valve clearance needs to be adjusted every 20k mls as there are no hydraulic lifters. However, the...

The old Mitsubishi Galant reaches a long time average of ~30mpg for the last 40k miles. When cruising steadily at ~65 mph on long roadtrips, I've seen consumptions as low as 37mpg. At ~75mph it's around 31mpg, at 85mph around 27.5mpg and at 100mph around 24,5mpg.

1988 Mitsubishi Galant, 121k miles Consumes or leaks about 1qt each 3-5k mls. Most likely, the bigger part of it simply leaks out. I will get to that issue once I have to adjust the valve clearance next time.

While what you're saying is absolutely correct in theory, I would be cautious with generalizations such as "any viscosity grade will do fine in this engine" without knowing more specific information about this engine or the driving style of its new owner. This engine has quite a high specific...

It is common practice over here as well. As far as I know my engine received 15W-40 from the dealerships when new. In winter, I use 5W-40 or 10W-40. In summer when it is hot (sometimes > 100 F) and the car idling for long times during city driving, I prefer something thicker as its still on...

Originally Posted by Bebop367 White residue along tank seams. Been there years with no change. At 15 years old should I replace it? If I replace what brand? Its caused by silicate minerals contained in some sorts of coolant. It forms a thin protective film that was supposed to protect the...

Originally Posted by SpitFire6 Hi, 20Wx is not OK in any engine from any era that is not worn out. Your engine is. So keep using it or "fix" your engine. I do not know of "Shannows" posts so can not comment. So you are saying that you burn oil with 20W50 group 4/5 oils but not 20W50 minerals...

Originally Posted by bozo66 Honda dealer in Florida quoted me four hundred dollars to inspect and adjust valves at 110,000 miles about six months ago. Holy sh... I have to check/adjust the valve clearance each ~15k mls on my engine. Nobody paid even close to 400 bucks for that back in the...

My engine also is an design from the late 60s that just underwent very minor changes throughout the time it was built. It does consume very few oil, but the engine is quite noisy due to its design. The engine itself is in great condition and I have no oil-pressure issues at all. A thicker oil...

Originally Posted by PimTac Next week this guy will make a video claiming that thinner oils cause more wear. That will result in more clicks and more money in his pocket plus another thread will be started here. Meanwhile this kook is laughing all the way to the bank. +1

I use anything that is cheaply available at that time and that has an additive-package which I deem to be appropriate for my engine backed by existing oil analysis. In the past years, I've been running oils made by Valvoline, Gulf, Castrol, Meguin, Mannol, Q8-Oils, Ravenol and others... Some...