I just opened the filter after the rx cleaning phase. Didn't think I would find anything, but at the bottom where there was some oil, you could see little flakes of black chips, kinda like the sparkles that kids sprinkle on glue. I'll try and take pics next weekend after I open up th epleats to...
Can't wait to see how this oil performs on the Toyota 3.0 V6. 10k, hmmm, probably another 6-8 months? I'm in the process of rx'ing my engine before I use the RL and sampling.
For summer time, would it be beneficial to use the RL 10w-30 you think?
I'm thinking of switching to Redline as well. I have the Toyota 3.0 V-6 gell engine. (Non- gelled hopefully, because of this I would think the higher flash point and its cleaning ability should be a good fit for this engine that seems to run hot and shear oil. Just not sure what I should start...
Actually, I think its different for different makes. For my Honda, manual says to check with engine OFF
For my Toyota, manual say to check with engine running in Park after shifting through all the gears.
Actually, I have been gradually draining and filling my ATF with Redline D4, and sometimes I notice a few bubbles on the Dipstick as well. Not many and tiny little buggers. I haven't had any slips and I'm at 50K on a 1998 ES300.
I have the infamous v-6 as well. I think you should stay on the safe side and perform a used oil analysis at 7,500 first. If good, then move up. One thing though, I would perform an engine flush first though. This is what I am doing before extending my OCI.
$12 is great. I got 2 gallons for $15.50 /ea.
I used about 5-5.5 qts. How long do you think the shelf life of the coolant is if I don't mix and store away?
I put on a set of Akebone, great pads, ceramic, less dust and no noise. Remember that they have two lines, the ACT and the PRO-ACT, not sure what the difference is but I had originally paid for the ProACT and was shipped the lower priced ACT.